Tokyo Style File

by Latoya Peterson

Harajuku? Gothi-Loli? Rococo? The terms used to describe the various fashion scenes and movements out of Japan could make even the most dedicated international fashionista's head spin.  Japanese culture is known for being the pinnacle of innovative cat walk creations. Much of the fashion landscape is pioneered by Japanese teenagers, with the most famous archetype being the ko-gal. Ko-gals (also known as Gals by the older term Gyaru) are young women in Japan who combine fashion savvy with unique style and slang. While the ko-gal may be one of the most famous images of a young Japanese women, there are literally dozens of subcultures in the frantic world of Japanese youth culture. Due to the originality of the fashion scene and the variable nature of trends, Japanese youth are on the forefront of global fashion. Their influence is seen everywhere from Gwen Stefani's interpretation of ko-gal style in the aptly named Harajuku Lovers line, to Le Sportsac and Smashbox Cosmetics' enthusiastic licensing of the Italy based, manga inspired line Tokidoki. 

Recreating Japanese style while living stateside can be quite a difficult task. While American style magazines are available at your nearest bookstore, along with the U.K. and French versions of the most popular magazines, the clothing and styles featured barely cover Japanese trends. To make things more complicated, Japanese fashion magazines tend to target a specific audience – there are literally magazines for every major fashion movement and sub-culture. In order to learn how to translate your favorite Tokyo image into an American fashion reality, you must first know what look you want to achieve. The guide below has some tips:

 

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Nana Kitade, Nana Oosaki (Nana)
Your Style Is: Modified Japanese Punk
Style Notes: The Japanese street scene is heavily influenced by a rock/punk aesthetic.  This look is characterized by very basic pieces – neutral and dark colored vests, pants, skirts tees, and jackets which are then taken to the next level with layers and layers of accessories.  Neckties, sweatbands, tiny purses, chunky soled platforms, belts with heavy buckles, bangles, and hair ties are all fair game.
Style Bible: Kera
Style Muse: Current J-Rock Idols
Style Must Haves: Vest with studs or grommet details, metallic wrist cuffs, dark denim jacket, high platforms/wedges, rock band/ironic tee shirts, plaid anything, shaggy rock hair cut or candy colored hair

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Ayumi Hamasaki, Riiko (Absolute Boyfriend), Karen (Kare First Love)
Your Style Is: Onee-Kei (Elder Sister Style)
Style Notes: Kawaii (cute) school girls and young adults love this style, which is both flirtatious and innocent. The clothes are a lot more conservative than the clothes seen in Fruits and Kera, and reflect a style of dressing that is more common to see on high school and college aged young women.
Style Bible: Vivi
Style Muse: Actors from J-Dramas
Style Must Haves: Patterned mini-dresses, cute pumps and Mary Janes, cute handbags, and sweater sets.  Basically, anything that would compliment a school uniform or a basic work wardrobe

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Ayumi Hamasaki, Riiko (Absolute Boyfriend), Karen (Kare First Love)
Your Style Is: Japanese Street
Style Notes: The unconventional “street fashion” in the Harajuku district received an explosion of media attention from overseas. Known for being unbelievably eye-catching, street fashion in Japan carries an in-your-face trendiness defined by the willingness of trend-setters to wear whatever they feel like wearing. Super tall striped knee socks with stiletto shoes? That’s covered.  A cinched corset worn as a skirt over work boots? That works as well. The only real guideline for Japanese street fashion is the confidence to pull off whatever you put on.
Style Bible: Fruits
Style Muse: The streets of Harajuku and Shibuya
Style Must Haves: Anything and everything is fair game.

 

 

 

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Namie Amuro, Nana Komatsu (Nana), Kyoka (Doubt)
Your Style Is: Onee Gal (Older Sister Gal Style)
Style Notes: What happens to Tokyo ko-gals once they leave their teen years behind? For some women, they abandon their teenage antics and begin to dress more modestly.  The others become Onee Gals.  Onee gal fashion is still provocative, but it is about portraying a more playful version of adult fashion. Showcasing femine style with a focus on creative hair, make-up, and nail designs, many young women remain as Onee Gals into their 30s.
Style Bible: S Cawaii
Style Muse: Fashion trends from around the globe, boutiques in Ginza
Style Must Haves: The hot shoes of the season, unique coats and jackets, nail jewels

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Jamsoa, Akane (Hot Gimmick), Mina (Doubt), Arisa
(Imadoki)
Your Style Is: Manba (also known as Ganguro)
Style Notes: Manba and Ganguro are terms that describe an entire wave of fashion sub-cultures. They key characteristic of Manba girls is their penchant for bronze skin and sexy clothing. Ganguro girls like darker skin (normally achieved by tanning), white eye make up and blond hair. Manba girls are known for being more rebellious than other groups of young women in Japan, and have very distinctive hobbies, like dancing Para-Para style.
Style Bible:Egg
Style Muse: The streets of Ikkebukuro, Hawaiian trends, and Island culture.
Style Must Haves: Hair extensions, blond dye, super short miniskirts, surf style jewelry, bead necklaces and bracelets, white eyeliner.

 

If Your Style Idols Are: Momoko from Kamikaze Girls, Mary Weather from God Child
Your Style Is: Gothi-Loli (Short for Gothic Lolita)
Style Notes: A mix of two very different styles – Japanese Gothic style, which is characterized by chalk white foundation, dark eye make-up, Vivenne Westwood shoes and accessories, heavy jewelry (crosses, roses, angels, and spiders) and an excess of black, European traditional style clothing, like corsets and petticoats. The Lolita side of the style normally drops the heavy foundation, and focuses on headdresses and bonnets, pastel-shades, and lots of ribbons, bows, and ruffles. Lolita can also extend to a style of dress that is very similar to cosplay – using a particular historical time frame as a way to dress. For example, Momoko from the 2004 film Kamikaze Girls dressed in Rococo style, which was originally worn in 18th century France.
Style Bible: The Gothic Lolita Bible
Style Muse: Ann Rice and Bram Stoker, Baby, The Stars Shine Bright!, Alice Auaa
Style Must Haves: Crosses, white foundation, black corsets on the more gothic side; hair extensions, lace bonnets, layered skirts on the Lolita side

If none of these movements fit your own personal style, don’t worry – there’s a new trend born in Japanese fashion every minute.
 

 

Get Your Fashion Fix

back to top

These sites offer up-to-the-minute news, media feeds, and pictures, all focusing on the changing nature of Japanese fashion.

http://fashion.3yen.com/

3Yen, a popular blog featuring information about Japanese culture, has an entire section devoted to the everchanging landscape of Japanese fashion.

http://www.japanesestreets.com/

Being “150% cool” is hard work, but JapaneseStreets.com is up to the challenge.  Focusing on street fashion a la Fruits magazine, this site features a live web feed, blog, trendwatch, and thousands of browseable images.

http://www.japaneselifestyle.com.au/fashion/fashion.html

This site is the best for beginners to Japanese fashion – it explains (with pictures) the differences between major fashion styles, as well as brief overviews of the major neighborhoods and influences that create trends.

http://www.style-arena.jp/index_e.htm

Featuring 5 of the top fashion districts in Japan (Harajuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Omotesando, and   Daikanyama), Style Arena explores fashion as it happens with weekly photo updates, a featured boutique section, and interviews with people who epitomize Tokyo style.

 

Places to Shop
back to top

Being U.S. Bound can make finding the cutest trends a challenge. Here are five sites that specialize in the most kawaii fashion to be found stateside.

http://www.asiajam.com/

Plaid shoes, baby doll charaters, crazy characters printed on pom-pom hats...Asia Jam has it all. Best for fans of Kera and Vivi.

www.asiangypsy.com (Ebay Store Name: Planet Walrus)

This Ebay store features eclectic and original designs from Fashion City, Singapore, which are   modeled after the fashions in the magazines and sites above. Shipping from Singapore is around $8.00.

www.vivcore.com

The online home of Candy Violet and Cute Salad (formerly known as Gaijin Geisha) features   Japanese inspired fashions like a kimono hoodie, kitty cat purses, and character tee shirts.

http://www.antidote-clothing.com/index.php

From strawberry hair clips to a deconstructed mini-chain dress, whatever fashion movement you want to follow, this site has you covered!